Secret Weapon- Deadzone Table part 4

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Secret Weapon is a well-loved sponsor of the NOVA Open so I figured I would be appropriate here.

Hello All,

Here we are with the final installment of this tutorial. I hope you enjoy it...

History

Part 1 

Part 2

Part 3

Now that the oil paint has had a chance to dry you are ready for a quick dry brush of Apple Barrel Granite Gray just to bring the subtle details back up again

before and after Drybrush

Paints used

Minitaire Base Grey

Minitaire Irradiated Yellow

Minitaire Raven Black

Vallejo Golden Yellow

QuickShade Dark Tone

Secret Weapon soft Body Black

Apple Barrel Pewter Grey

Americana Slate Grey

Apple Barrel Granite Gray

Folkart Soft White

Citadel Shade Seraphim Sepia

Here are 2 shots of the board at this stage just to make sure the coloring is close enough.  (Waiting several months between painting sessions has its drawbacks)

Once I was satisfied I used Vallejo Golden Yellow Airbrush paint to add the Radiation and Bio symbols on the red hatches.

At this point I found myself in a dilemma. There was something I did not like about the board. Every time I  looked at I thought something was not right. Then it hit me. The arrows! Those damn yellow arrows. They had to go.

So I masked off the space and painted it Minitaire Base Grey.

Once dry I went over it again with Minitaire Irradiated Yellow

Then the masking tape went on in… you guessed it. Stripes!

Lastly I went over it with Minitaire Raven Black

Once the tape was removed the “Caution Zone” starts to take shape.

Of course there was some bleed. I could have gone back and repainted the bad spots but honestly I did not want to risk screwing it up so I decided to try texture (sand. Good old sand) I made spots that I hoped resembled small rubble piles over the bad spots. I then added a few more in random spaces to make it look less planned.

I painted the sand by washing each spot with a mix of QuickShade Dark Tone & Secret Weapon soft Body Black

I used the same colors as on the base of the board: Apple Barrel Pewter Grey, Americana Slate Grey, and Apple Barrel Granite Gray. I then did a light drybrush of Folkart Soft White just to make it “pop”

Lastly I went back in with Seraphim Sepia to the cracks of the “Caution Zone” so they would stick out with the yellow.

Well that’s it.  I hope… What? What does it look like all together?  

Take a look.

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial of the Dead Zone board by Secret Weapon Miniatures.  If So I might do another for the “Junk Yard” board I also got with the kickstarter…

Till next time

RGH

Secret Weapon- Deadzone Table part 3

Time for another entry

Hello All,

I know its been a while but I finally got back to the Deadzone tiles from last year. Ryan Cruz requested that I get back to this so here I am. Lets do it.

Part 1
Part 2

Secret Weapon is a well loved sponsor of the NOVA Open so I figured I would be appropriate here. 

Painting the Dead Zone Tiles

Part 1 Prep

At this stage I get the tile to a place where it can be used in a pinch.

Paints used

Folkart Black mixed with “Martha Stewart” Matt brush on finish

Apple Barrel Pewter Grey

Americana Slate Grey

Apple Barrel Granite Gray

Prime Black- (It was too cold to spray paint so I used a mix of Folkart Black mixed with “Martha Stewart” Matt brush on finish.) I then used my Anthem 155 Airbrush with a medium needle to apply shades of Grey over the entire piece. Pewter Grey followed by Slate Grey. I them Dusted a light drybrush of Granite Gray over the whole thing.

That Makes the Base Tiles displayed before.

Part 2 Details

At this stage the idea is to apply the detail work that gives the piece character.

Paints used

Citadel Warplock Bronze

Citadel Leadbelcher

Secret Weapon Armor Wash

Citadel Mephiston Red

Winsor & Newton Winton Oil Color 24 Ivory Black

Winsor & Newton Winton Oil Color 3 Burnt Umber

Paint Thinner (I use Odorless- Not shown)

For the Metal I used watered down Warplock Bronze as a base.

 I then brushed on the Leadbelcher making sure to let some of the bronze shows through.  

Once dry I washed on watered down Armor wash. 

Once it is dry stipple Red on the hatch making sure it looks spotty then wash with a thin coat of Armor wash.

Now for the fun (and Messy) Part

Mix equal parts Ivory Black and Burnt Umber with enough paint Thinner to make a wash. Now paint the entire Tile (leaving the metal parts untouched.)

Stay with me on this it gets better.

Let the oil paint dry for 30 minutes or so (I used a fan) then take a rag and rub off the excess oil paint. This will leave a neat affect.

Drying time

Partial Rub to show effect

Once done you should let the tile(s) dry for a day or so. 

Oil Paint removed

Side by side with original Tiles

Next Time I will go into final base highlights and details as well as a surprise that will change the boards look

Later

RGH